Onion cooked in salt water was the chief food of the poorest peoples of central Asia, Asia Minor and the Mediterranean region in days of old. It was also the mainstay of the diet of Egyptian labourers, who built the ancient pyramids in the third millennium B.C.

It was so popular with the Romans that they even had a special name – `porrinae’ – for gardens where it was grown. In present-day England and America the leek is usually used only as a vegetable, whereas in Europe, particularly in France, it is also used as a kitchen herb.

The Welsh onion has a milder flavour than the common onion. Unlike the latter, which is grown as a biennial, it is hardy and perennial. Another advantage is that the small elongated bulbs grow in clusters as part of one single bulb which breaks up into several smaller onions as it grows.

The onion’s metamorphosis from a vegetable into a seasoning is also apparent in recent years by its being available at shops in dried, finely-sliced form. This is used in the same way as fresh onion and is suitable for frying.

Even though it had been grown in China two thousand years ago the Welsh onion was not known in medieval Europe until the 16th century when it was introduced via Russia. Nowadays it is cultivated in both Europe and America. Its requirements are light to medium, weed-free soil that is not too moist and an open, sunny position. The soil must not be freshly fertilized but it must have sufficient humus and lime present.

Even though many different (often regional) forms are grown and sold throughout the world, leeks can be divided into two basic groups. Large, plump leeks (I), which also give large yields, are used as a vegetable, whereas the smaller slender leeks (2), are recommended for use as a culinary herb. Those who find onion too pungent for their taste can use leek instead. The Romans even used young leeks to make a salad